Geisha a Go Go refocuses on food, adds sushi

The Gaijin Roll at Geisha A Go Go is sushi's answer to the chimichanga. (Credit: Courtesy of Geisha A Go Go)

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By Megan Finnerty
Metromix

Scottsdale is so obsessed with sushi that in April, Greg Donnally bet he could serve it at two of his three Old Town restaurants—the ones that are across the street from each other.

Now Stingray Sushi and Geisha A Go Go serve sushi, though radically different kinds.

“You give people what they want, and about half the people who used to come in here wanted sushi,” said Donnally. “They want value, food they're familiar with and that's what we give them now.”

When it opened in February 2008, Geisha A Go Go was a decidedly nightlife-centric experience, with rentable karaoke rooms, specialty cocktails, DJ nights and an emphasis on early dining, if dining happened at all.

But to help keep the space open during the recession, Donnally went back to his roots, which, as one of the originals behind the Ra Sushi concept, involve raw fish, dried seaweed and rice.

Food sales have tripled since the addition of a seven-person sushi bar. The revamped menu focuses on innovative sushi rolls and familiar small plates such as calamari, ahi sliders, various kinds of tempura and lettuce wraps. He's also focusing more on happy hour, from 4 to 7 p.m. six days a week and all-day on Sundays, during which guests can get half-priced specialty cocktails, sushi and maki.

Donnally has also updated the space by adding several TVs to the patio so people linger longer, and installing a new 20-person karaoke room with a gold stripper pole and private patio.

If only for it's fashionista-friendly presentation, one of the coolest items on the new menu is the teppanyaki. The dish is served quickly, in a glossy bronze glitter bento box for $8 to $16, including miso, salad and fried rice.

Of the new “rock and roll”-style rolls, or what Donnally calls Americanized sushi, the Gaijin stole my heart, and perhaps my ability to judge how much salt and fat a person should eat. It's the sushi version of a chimichanga. I bet you didn't think such a thing could exist—or even should. I can tell you, it is all that is right with fusion cuisine. Take spicy tuna mix, spicy crab mix, avocado and cream cheese, wrap in seaweed, rice and a spring-roll wrapper and fry.

There's also the Pokémon, which involves Fritos, breaded salmon, spicy crab mix and avocado. The Fritos are no gimmick here; they make the roll.

And I loved the Rokabiri, a roll of spicy crab mix, avocado and asparagus topped with pepperjack and sizzling beef tataki, all drizzled with a spicy curry sauce.

“It was nice to be able to have fun with a menu, a chance to showcase the other talents that I have,” said Chef Andrew Nam. “I loved pushing the envelope with all this. This is experimental sushi.”

Details: Dinner until midnight, drinks until 2 a.m. 7150 E. Sixth Ave. Scottsdale 480-699-0055, geishaagogo.com.