Looking to get in a New York state of mind in Gilbert? Short of taking deep breaths behind an idling bus, it's not easy. But you can do some plausible pretending at Nicantoni's. The slices here have a likable sweet tomato sauce and the right heft. Try the white pizza or the “Tree Cheese,” a specialty pie with, you guessed it, three kinds of cheese. Nicantoni’s also dishes up calzones, subs, pasta and desserts such as tiramisu, cannoli and, of course, New York cheesecake.