Angel Moreno's foray into the restaurant business began with Sonoran-style hot dogs, which he sold from a mobile food cart in Chandler. Business was so good that, by 2003, he was encouraged to open a quick-serve Mexican restaurant in Mesa, then another in Chandler in 2008.
Hot dogs may be Moreno's claim to fame, but the menu features plenty of other south-of-the-border specialties you won't want to miss.
Scene: Because of its size, getting from Point A to Point B in this small, crowded quick-serve operation is seldom a straight line, but nobody seems to mind the maneuvering. They're there for an authentic, affordable meal, served quickly and without fuss. The tiny, well-kept condiment bar comes stocked with two salsas (one tomatillo, the other red chile), pickled jalapeños, sliced cucumbers, creamy avocado sauce and lime wedges - all provided for customizing tacos and anything else that strikes your fancy.
Food: This is the real homemade deal, not some gringoized version of Mexican food, a fact proven by such adventurous dishes as lengua (beef tongue) and cabeza (beef head). The menu, which leans toward street food, offers a little bit of everything, including tacos, burritos, tostadas, ceviche, combination plates and caramelos (akin to quesadillas).
I love the simplicity of tiny soft tacos, laid out flat on the plate and topped with carne asada, adobada (grilled pork), chicken, juicy cabeza or lengua, as well as a sprinklings of cabbage, cilantro and onion ($1.39).
Sopes are even better: fried masa patties, lightly browned and chewy, their shallow indentations filled with meat and strewn lightly with toppings ($3.19). By the way, loved the grilled pork and juicy, beefy-flavored cabeza best of all.
The Sonoran hot dog, served in a split-top bun with mustard, ketchup, mayo, tomatoes and skimpily applied beans, is attractive and bargain-priced but not quite as tasty as those sold by some local street vendors ($2.75). Why? The dog is boiled, not grilled, and it isn't wrapped in bacon. It also needs more goodies, because that's the beauty of these over-the-top creations.
Loved the guacamole, sold in various sizes with good, thin chips (2 ounces, $1.49) as well as the ceviche tostada, lime-tart and refreshing on a hot day ($4.15). Tortas, smeared with guacamole and dressed with lettuce, tomato and onion, are tasty ($5.79) but probably better next door at Tortas El Guero.
Fried ice cream, which sounds boring, is actually fantastic, combining cajeta-filled churros, (sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar), ice cream, sweet crunchy breakfast cereal, chocolate syrup and whipped cream ($4.05). Yum!
Drinks: Moreno's offers tall Cokes, bottled in Mexico, but made with high fructose corn syrup, not sugar cane (huh?). Aguas frescas include cinnamony horchata, strawberry, pineapple and jamaica (hibiscus tea).
Lowdown: If you're in the neighborhood, Moreno's is worth a look. The food is authentic, freshly prepared and inexpensive. What's not to like?
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